Over the years, we have addressed the VE Commodore a couple of times in our various forms of marketing. We have released a video review on the car and even covered the common faults that relate to the V6 Commodore timing chain. That issue seems to plague these vehicles. After releasing both of these forms of vehicle reviews, we have copped a fair chunk of flack from various consumers. In response to this we have decided to address the issues with these vehicles once again with a straight to the point, what we think and why.
The VE Commodore is not a particularly good choice of vehicle for a number of reasons. We will address just a few of the common issues we see daily in our workshop. By buying a VE Commodore, new in its day or second hand now, you are willingly putting your hand up to be a guinea-pig to test the new platform. The single greatest issue is the timing chain fault that the V6 engine is very common for. Unfortunately the Holden V6 is known for stretched timing chains which is a very costly fix.
Sticking with the V6 engine for now, there are other common faults these engines have. The Hydraulic lifters are known for getting very noisy and creating noises that can lead people to misdiagnose the above mentioned timing chain fault as the cause. Noisy lifters are a common issue with the VE Commodore.
To fix this the top of the inlet manifold has to be removed the spark plugs replaced or cleaned and reassembled. On a side note, these spark plugs are iridium plugs which makes replacing them rather expensive. The main battery location in the boot or behind seats in the utilities, seem to be causing semi common problems with voltage drop becoming excessive. This is relatively easily fixed but requires owners to spend a few quid on a battery with substantial CCA Cold Cranking Amps to combat the problem.
The Engine mounts always split, with the passenger one failing first due to the torque of the engine, causing it to twist under acceleration. The V6 thermostat location is ridiculous. There are many different opinions on what the best way to tackle this job is. Transmission out, manifold off or have tiny hands. There you have it. Our list of the most common things to be mindful of when it comes to the VE Commodore. Bought a ve sv6, nothing but trouble. Just wondering if the gearbox on a 06 commodore ve auto would send it to limp mode.
Just going thru the process. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. He thinks it just needs an auto tune. The car also needs a new exhaust sensor. Just looking for some thoughts on the car and what the problem could be. It sounds very odd.vr commodore misfire and plug change.
I doubt its a transmission problem from what your saying. I would get a reputable mechanic to give it the once over including a scan of the control modules before committing to buy this car.
Troubleshooting Engine Rough Idle Problems
I have a VE wagon that the check engine ligjt keeps coming on. Could it be E10 fuel. Could be hundreds of things. You need to start with a code scan. Once you know what fault codes you have stored in the ECU you can then start to diagnose whats actually wrong.Have noticed when sitting at the lights my Ve seems not to sit on the same RPM as it jumps slightly and you can just feel it sitting in the cabin jump up about rpm maybe as the cars only done ks it might still be running in has anyone else had this problem.
I have a Calais V but its a V6. Its smooth azz when idling and hardly notice the car is running. I had a VZ V8 calais before the new one and the V8 was always smooth What sort of fuel are you using in the car? I used 98 RON premium. Shell V-Power. Maybe take the car for a long drive and maybe stretch its legs a few times. Have noticed when sitting at the lights my Ve seems not to sit on the same RPM as it jumps slightly and you can just feel it sitting in the cabin jump up about rpm maybe as the cars only done ks it might still be running in has anyone else had this problem Yeah mate I think you'll find this is normal with the 6ltr, my thunder idles pretty rough at times.
Nothing to be too worried about. Chuck a stage 3 cam in her then you'll have something to worry about! If you get no joy get it tuned. If you get it tuned you may want to do some minor mods to get the most out of your tune :search: use it, information is free!
Yeah trust me i know how they idle with a cam my old VT had a cam and it was pretty rough on the idle.Video metadata editor
Yah - sounds pretty normal. The LS1's had a wobble to their stock idle too, not so much rough as just a slight speed variance which would be noticeable. S'funny - you look at the engine and it doesn't seem to move in the bay, but sitting inside you feel the car wobble a bit. I dont seem to norice mine so much now it's had a tune - or maybe I'm used to it Mabe drop into a dealership and listen to another car to see if it's the same.
I've read so many stories in here where people have little running issues and all they get from the dealer is "it's normal", take it to someone who knows their 6litre and straight away they will tell you if it's normal. I just don't trust dealers anymore after having warranty issues for 2 years that still aren't resolved. Good luck! Mine has a slight rough idle too. Not worried about it. Seems to have settled a little over time.
This was mentioned in another thread and seemed to be common. Have noticed when sitting at the lights my Ve seems not to sit on the same RPM as it jumps slightly and you can just feel it sitting in the cabin jump up about rpm maybe as the cars only done ks it might still be running in has anyone else had this problem Dont worry urself bout that litle rumble as the L98 has a little bumpstick in it : ,i have had too mnay thru the shop Yep - i have an SSV with km on the clock and i get a little "stutter" at idle at the lights etc.
I think it just adds to the "character" of the engine and car. Nothing to worry about in my oppinion. That a new model that Holden are prototyping, Dean? Or maybe a "stutter" that you caught from your engine :. Or maybe a "stutter" that you caught from your engine : maybe its a new model or maybe its a stutter :1peek:. I improved my idle by lowering it to rpm and adding more timing.
Its not like it was bad before.Dan Ferrell writes about do-it-yourself car maintenance and repair. He has certifications in automation and control technology.
Engine rough idle problems arise because car engines are demanding. Components in the fuel, ignition, emission and other systems should work correctly.
It only takes a minor problem like a fouled spark plug to cause your engine to vibrate. Idle problems may originate in a worn out component, a failed part, or a blown gasket. The number of potential sources of a rough idle can make your diagnostic a little difficult. Still, you have at your disposal several tools to help you troubleshoot and fix the problem sooner.
Even more, on modern vehicles the car computer monitors many sensors and actuators and usually can detect small deviating operating parameters and store related trouble codes as necessary. The code may indicate the component, circuit or system involved in the fault. So this gives you an additional advantage. In this guide, you'll find many of the components that, when going bad, will usually cause engine rough idle problems.
The components are ordered from the most frequent to the least, either because they usually receive little attention or because they are bound to fail within a number of miles of operation. To make the most out of this list, pay attention to the 'Other symptoms' at the bottom of each component description.
And compare these symptoms and conditions to the ones you've noticed in your car. This will help you zero in on your diagnostic faster. For example, when your engine idles rough, you may notice the problem only shows up before the engine warms up; then idle smooths out. This may indicate a bad ECT sensor as described in Other symptoms in that section.
So pay attention to all the symptoms and conditions when given in each component listed to make your diagnostic easier. Before starting hunting for the source of a rough idle, you can do this simple method to confirm that you have a driveability problem. It'll work in most cases. Set your transmission to Park automatic or Neutral manualand apply the parking brake. Start the engine and let it idle. Now, listen to the sound coming out of the tail pipe.Welcome Guest!
Technical Tips Page
My suggestion would be o2 sensor, try swapping with another vehicle to see if problem is transferred to other vehicle. Sounds silly but check your sparkplug leads. I had a VS ute which suddenly started running rough. Turned out someone had used VT leads on it, which have a different length and a kink near the cap.
One of the leads had shifted slightly and was touching the. The car is still not running right, have now also checked the O2 sensors, cam sensor, crank angle sensor, air flow meter, the car also has new leeds and plugs done, and changed coil pack assemble, the fuel pump and filters where change about 4 months ago. I used to own a 94 VR exec that had a very similar problem, turned out to be some crap in the fuel filter, give it a good bash or better yet change it and see if that improves the problem.
Hope you find what it is mate. When only cubes will do!Orbi ethernet port speed
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Weird vibration in VE V6. There is a weird vinbration in the driveline at revs. It is only very slight, it feels like driving over rough bitumen. It only happens at revs, speed up or slow down and it goes away. The Omega is an 07 with 85K's, it is a lot more noticeable than the Sportswagon. It is an 08 with 50k's.
I thought it may be just part of the car as both of them do it, but the omega is really starting to give me the sh! Is this a common fault? What is the cause? Thanks for any info you can give. My work car '07 Omega 3.
I think it's just a harmonic in the exhaust. It's bad enough to buzz the interior mirror, but that's the only time it bothers me. Further info here Both those links refer to V8s, and at much higher road speeds than rpm would allow. This is more a harmonic via the exhaust, not a tailshaft induced vibration, and it's perculiar to the V6. Yeah this is definately not a high speed thing.This page contains technical tips as submitted by visitors to this site.
They are presented as is, try them at your own risk. Please remember to consult a professional if in doubt. If you have any other tech tips to add to this page, please email me. VB - VK pools of oil appearing next to the carburettors on and engines. VH flasher unit only clicks on left or right turn and flashes quicker.
Holden VE Commodore Common Problems
VL Commodore 6cyl auto: first gear only revs out to approx rpm when floored, even in power mode. Repair of interior window rubber at the top of the door trim, VN - VS Executive, Berlina, sedans and wagons, not sure about door trim construction on Calais, Statesman. VN Commodore fuel pump operates continuosly after ignition is turned off.
Batery not charging. Fault- poor connection or blown fuseable link brown wire at the battery positive terminal. VT Ute - The dashboard "battery light" intermittantly turns hard on while the headlights are on. Severe corrosion of the spade connector caused an open circuit or high resistance in the charging circuit.
If you find dim, or partially working rear lights, a common problem found is water corroding electrical connections. Thouroughly remove rust from globe sockets and mounts, then the full current can travel through the globe. I noticed that a lot of people write in about the tail lights on there early model commodores, most of the tail lights act like fish tanks and fill up of water thus making bad electrical contacts. First thing to do is drill small holes in the bottom of your tail lights then replace the tail light globe holders which are stocked by Holden or coventries.
This should put an end to your rear light and indicator problems.Acf repeater inside repeater
Holden did the stupid thing of hooking a 6 cylinder diff up to a V8, this causes the stock diffs to explode when put under intense load for long times eg: burnouts, heavy towing. The best solution is to bolt up a diff to the or get a 9" diff for it. Stop looking for boot leaks through the boot seals. One of the most common places for the leak to occur is through the window seals front as well onto the front floor.Glow plug module
Usually due to rust under the seal as well. Naturally the window has to be removed and is quite possible that it will crack, especially if there are chips etc.
Repair the rust if present,and reseal with a new seal. The genuine VK window seal will fit into all of these and is much superior,also it doesn't have the annoying centre insert! Good Luck. Often as a mechanic I see people with complaints about oil in the inlet manifold valley next to the carburettor. The inlet manifolds on blue and black engines warp near the egr crossover and oil leaks past the bolt and forms a pool of oil.
The proper way to fix this is to remove and machine the manifold, but a temporary fix is to remove the 2 centre manifold bolts on the right side of the manifold and apply a sealant to the bolts and replace.
It's a common problem but can be easily overcome!
I hope this can be of use! The most common cause of engine troubles with the motors was the Varajet carbi. It made the engines work to well bellow their potential. A cheap substitue for the varajet is a small Weber off of the XE falcons.
They not only provide greater horse power but also increase your fuel effeciency. Water leaking in boot? Then check the screws that fix the fuel cap onto the body of the vehicle.Remember Me?
What's New? Results 1 to 15 of Thread: VZ Commodore running rough. Thread Tools Show Printable Version.Vifa woofer
The last few days i's been running rough,like one cylinder is missing,the same symptoms as before I had the coils changed. After about 10 mins shaking it goes back to normal all day.
The mechanic said it's the computer common fault with Commodore. Once the engine warms up ,no problem. Any ideas? Thanks in advance Gulliver. Originally Posted by gulliver. I have a VZ Commodore Its not the ECU, has he had it on a tech2 to diagnose it properly, Did you replace the plug leads?
I'd be more inclined to say you have dirty dribbling injectors, does the car blow much black smoke on start up and when its running rough. I've had similar problems in the past that were caused by the connection TO the coil. It's not necessarily any engine connections leads at all. IIRC it was a while ago it was the ignition connection. The symptoms were as you describe.
The fact that there's a highway to hell and a stairway to heaven says a lot about the anticipated traffic flow. Originally Posted by carjackma. Most cars I fix with ECU problems are good when cold and play up when warm.
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